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When assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the proprietors utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” says a family member, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.